Zushi

The jar reads as candied orange rind over something darker and damp, a dank earthiness that keeps the sugar honest, and some cuts drift toward pineapple and mango instead. On the palate the citrus turns sour and lemony, with a peppery, faintly smoky finish.

The lift comes quickly, bright and talkative with an easy creative streak, then eases into a loose, relaxed body without pinning you down. The weak points are consistency and weight: accounts disagree on which fruit leads, the mint of its Kush Mints parent rarely shows, and it runs stronger than its easy start suggests.

For candy-citrus drinkers who want a lift before the slide.